South Africa Guide
The Eastern Cape
Nqileni
Idyllically located at the mouth of the Bulungula River, the spread-out village of NQILENI gives you the opportunity to experience rural Transkei life. The river winds its way to the sea through rolling green hills dotted with rondavels, maize fields and livestock, ending at a tranquil river mouth. The coastline is carpeted in dense forest stretching into kilometres of soft, white beach. On a walk through the village you'll invariably be invited into someone's home to have your face painted with traditional clay, to try your hand at grinding maize for the evening meal or to see traditional beer being brewed. Other possibilities include spending the day with a traditional fisherman, taking a canoe trip along the river, horse-riding across the beach or consulting a sangoma.
If you're looking for relaxation and an authentic cultural experience, you'll be hard pressed to find a better place to stay than the well-run Bulungula Backpackers Lodge (booking essential; 
047 577 8900, 
www.bulungula.com ; Price: Under R100), which has ten brightly painted rondavels (sleeping two or four) and camping, with shared ablutions. It's a joint venture between the community and seasoned traveller Dave Martin, who spent many of his student years involved in community development projects. The lodge buys most of its vegetables from an organic farming project run by the villagers, and is equipped with solar electricity, satellite telephone and eco-friendly toilets.
The lodge runs a shuttle service (R55) from the Shell Ultra City in Mthatha (arrange this when booking). To drive to the lodge, make for Elliotdale (turn off the N2 at Jojweni), then about 500m beyond the edge of town, turn left onto a dirt road signposted for Bulungula Lodge and Madwaleni Hospital. Continue for another 30km until you reach the hospital, where you leave your car (secure parking costs R10 per day). Lodge staff will collect you from there.