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South Africa Guide

KwaZulu-Natal

Durban

Until the 1970s, DURBAN was regarded as white South Africa's quintessential seaside playground – a status fostered by its tropical colours, oversized vegetation and an itinerant population of surfers, hedonists and holidaying Jo'burg families. Then, in the 1980s, the collapse of apartheid population-influx controls saw a growing stream of Africans flood in from rural KwaZulu-Natal – and even from as far afield as central Africa – to stake their claims in the city centre, with shantytowns and cardboard hovels revealing the reality of one of the most unmistakably African conurbations in the country.

South Africa's third-largest city is a thriving industrial centre and the largest port in Africa. Its beachfront pulls thousands upon thousands of white Jo'burgers down to "Durbs" every year, while the harbour remains a photogenic place for meandering or eating and drinking at the dockside. Another unmistakable feature of Durban is a legacy of the city's Indianpopulation (its second-largest group): mosques, bazaars and temples, festooned with wildly coloured deities, stand juxtaposed with the Victorian buildings marking out the colonial centre.

Durban tours and harbour rides

1 Gailforce Tours 083 643 1923 gailsnyman@hotmail.com Tours of the coloured townships of Durban.

2 Strelitzia Tours 031 573 2252 www.strelitziatours.com Daily minibus trips around the major sights, the centre and the Berea, as well as trips further afield to the game parks, the Battlefields and up Sani Pass in the Ukhahlamba Drakensberg.

3 Tekweni Eco Tours 031 332 0575 or 079 597 7643 www.tekweniecotours.co.za Visits to Zulu villages in the Valley of a Thousand Hills for a Zulu meal and beer, traditional dancing and an encounter with a traditional healer. Also available are camping safaris into the Ukhahlamba Drakensberg.

4 Thuthuka Tours 082 264 2556 Discover the roots of resistance to apartheid by taking a township tour in the company of Langa Dube, whose late grandfather was the first president of the ANC. Langa can also take you on an overnight trip to his family homestead in a remote part of central Zululand.

5 Tours of Remembrance 031 337 7879 or 083 560 9999 A community-based tour company that can take you to the townships, the Gandhi settlement and Hindu temples.