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Lesotho Guide

Sani

    Branching off the Mokhotlong road 5km before the town, the rough gravel road to SANI twists its way in spectacular fashion for nearly 60km along the Sehonkong River, peaking at Kotisephola Pass (3240m) before dropping to 2895m at Sani Top, a few kilometres from the South African border. If you wish to stop en route, your best bet is No 10 Riverside in Matsoaing village, 20km after Mohotlong, where the convivial Thabiso Nkune and his family offer local food, guided hikes, pony-trekking, cultural performances, and accommodation in a simple bunkhouse (Up to R100). Bookings can be made via the Maloti Drakensburg Transfrontier Project office in Mohotlong ( 2231 2662, info@maloti.org.ls).

    Getting to Sani is only possible in good weather; if it's been snowing, you can forget it. On the South Africa side minibuses run from Underberg to the border More comfortable would be to join a 4WD tourist vehicle up the Sani Pass. Sani Pass Carriers in Himeville ( +27 (0)33 701 1017) can take you from Pietermaritzburg and Kokstad to Underburg (M125 per person). Here you can connect with either Sani Pass Tours ( +27 (0)33 701 1064, info@sanipasstours.com), Thaba Tours or Maluti Treks; all three run daily at around 9am up to Sani Top (M300–400 per person) and return between 2.30pm and 4pm. Hitching shouldn't be too difficult, seeing as Mokhotlong's few stores tend to stock up in KwaZulu-Natal. The border, between Sani Top Chalet and Sani Pass, is open daily from 8am to 4pm; the Lesotho side stays open till 5pm to let vehicles through.

    The only place to stay on the Lesotho side is the deservedly popular Sani Top Chalet ( & +27 (0)33 702 1158, www.sanitopchalet.co.za ; dorms R101-200, rooms R301-400 half board, rondavels R401-500 half board), which makes much of its claim to be the highest pub in Africa, at 2874m above sea level. The cliff-edge setting is superb, with awesome views into KwaZulu-Natal, and there's also hearty food on offer, while in the evenings you can drink in front of the fire or sit on the balcony and watch the sun set over the mountaintops.