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Jordan Guide

Petra and around

Wadi Musa

WADI MUSA is an anomaly, a dusty southern Jordanian town given an unfamiliar twist with lots of signs in English, a huge number of hotels and a noticeable diminution in the usual hospitality towards foreigners. In sharp contrast to the rest of Jordan, where decency and respect are the unswerving norm, Wadi Musa shows a distressing tendency towards rip-offs, wheedling and outright hassle. Businesses and individuals all too often overcharge and under-deliver. It's a badly run, seedy little place.

If you stay for a while you may pick up on the town's rather sad air of powerlessness. This is epitomized by the local farmers and small-business people who are well aware that their hands are tied (either by decision-makers who don't always put local interests first or by regional instability that can decimate the town's income for months on end), and exemplified by the substandard hotels serviced by bored, lonely guest workers from Egypt and northern Jordan, who see little of the whirlwinds of cash that blow into town with every tour bus.

Tour companies

1 Petra Moon 03 215 6665 www.petramoon.com Experienced and well-respected tour company who – as well as covering trips around Jordan – can put together short adventure-style excursions on the fly. Ideas include a sunset horseride at Baydha, a half or full day's hiking, horseriding or mountain-biking in the hills above Wadi Musa, a two-day camel trek to Sabra, including full support, and so on.

2 La Beduina 03 215 7099 www.labeduinatours.com Along with Petra Moon, this is one of the best tour companies in Petra.

3 Zaman Tours 03 215 7723 www.zamantours.com A reliable tour company.

4 Jordan Tours & Travel 03 215 4666 www.jordantours-travel.co Check out Jordan Tours' offerings along with those from Petra Moon, La Beduina and Zaman Tours.

5 Jordan Beauty Tours 079 558 1644 www.jordanbeauty.com Small company, focused mainly on hiking and low-key wilderness exploration.

6 Jordan Inspiration Tours 077 609 7581 www.jitours.com A small operator offering low-impact wilderness tours.

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