Jordan Guide
Getting around
Buses and serveeces
The most common way of getting between cities is by bus, most of which are fifteen- or eighteen-seater minibuses. Some larger buses and air-conditioned coaches also serve as public transport, though in most cases minibuses are the only transport option available. Few timetables are in operation: buses tend to depart only when they're full. This means that, on less-travelled routes especially, you should factor in sometimes quite considerable waiting time for the bus to fill up. Once you get going journeys are rarely arduous: roads are good, and the longest single journey in the country, from Amman to Aqaba, is unlikely to take more than four hours. All buses and minibuses have their point of origin and destination painted in Arabic script just above either brake-light on the rear of the vehicle.
Bus fares are very low. As a guide, a half-hour hop between towns costs JD0.30–0.40 one-way. Slightly longer journeys, such as Amman to Jerash, or Karak to Tafileh, are in the order of JD0.80–1. Rip-offs are rare: if you ask the fare, you'll invariably be told the truth. Expect inflated fares on routes serving major tourist sites: Petra to Wadi Rum is JD5. There is no competition between minibus operators.
A few companies operate large, air-con buses in competition with the minibuses on some long-distance runs. Jordan Express Tourist Transport, or JETT, has daily timetabled services Amman– Aqaba and Amman– Petra; Trust International Transport operates Amman– Aqaba and Irbid– Aqaba; Hijazi operates Amman– Irbid, mainly for Yarmouk University students; and there are a few others. These all offer the advantages of comfort and speed over the minibuses, and most allow you to book in advance (in person only, at the company's office).
On most inter-city routes, shared taxis (universally known as serveeces) tout for business alongside the buses. These are white cars, often seating seven or eight people, which offer, at a slightly higher price, the single advantage of speed over the same journey by bus – though being squashed into the back seat on a long journey can counter in discomfort what might be gained in time. Serveeces also operate the system of departing when full, but because there are fewer seats they leave more frequently. If you're carrying bulky or heavy luggage, you may find that serveece, and some minibus, drivers will charge you a small supplement per bag.
For getting around within cities, most places have their own systems of short-hop buses and serveeces.
Bus and serveece etiquette says that men should sit next to men and women next to women (except for married partners or siblings), and you should stick to this rule when you can. No one will be mortally offended if circumstances force you to sit next to a Jordanian of the opposite sex, but you may find that other passengers shuffle themselves around before departure to avoid this happening.