Egypt Guide
Cairo
Roda Island
The narrow channel between Roda Island and the mainland is bridged in such a way that the island engages more with Garden City than with Old Cairo – a reversal of historic ties. As the much-rebuilt Nilometer suggests, it was the southern end of Roda that was visited by ferries en route between Memphis and Heliopolis, and Roman ships bound for Babylon-in-Egypt. However, Roda reverted to agricultural use as Cairo's focus shifted northeastwards, and nothing remains of the Byzantine fortress that defied the Muslim invasion, nor the vaster Ayyubid qasr where the Bahri Mamlukes were garrisoned. The island's main sight, the Manial Palace, re-established a fashion for palatial residences early last century, though it wasn't until the 1950s that Roda experienced a building explosion similar to Zamalek's.
With Roda's tourist attractions sited 3km apart, choice of transport is a major consideration. The Nilometer is best reached on foot from Old Cairo via the footbridge from the Corniche. You can take a minibus or service taxi down the Corniche from the centre to Old Cairo; alternatively Mari Girgis metro station is just two blocks southeast of the footbridge. Should you settle for only one sight, make it the palace, which is easily accessible from central Cairo. Aside from a taxi (£E4–5), a #58 minibus is the fastest way of getting there from Midan Tahrir (Abdel Mouneem Riyad terminal), and minibus #56 heads there from Ramses; alight on Sharia Sayala, near the palace gates. Walking takes about half an hour from downtown Cairo, and on hot days can leave you totally bushed.