Egypt Guide
Alexandria and the Mediterranean coast
Drinking
1 
Cap d'Or Sharia Adib Bek Ishtak, off Sharia Sa'ad Zaghloul A real slice of old Alex, furnished with Art Nouveau mouldings and engraved mirrors, where bohemians and expats rub shoulders over grilled sardines and bottles of whisky or tequila. It has a friendly atmosphere, and is popular with the gay community after midnight, when there may be live oud (lute) music. Price: A full meal and a couple of beers costs about £E60 Opening time: Daily noon–3am
2 Elite 43 Sharia Safiya Zaghloul Simple blue-painted extension to the restaurant of the same name (whose food is awful). Frequented by tourists, writers and oddballs; a place to talk and meet people, lubricated by Egyptian beer, zibiba or brandy. Opening time: Usually open until midnight
3 Fever Off Sharia Safiya Zaghloul This preppy music bar serving Tex-Mex and Egyptian snacks, imported beer, spirits and cocktails is dead most nights, but packed out with fun-loving young Alexandrians on Thursdays. Opening time: Daily 7am–4am
4 Spitfire Bar Sharia al-Bursa al-Qadima Small hangout covered in stickers from oil companies, warships and overland travel groups (the kind of foreigners that frequent the place), with Seventies rock music and TV sports. Opening time: Mon– Sat noon–1am
5 Greek Club Sharia Qasr Qaitbey, Anfushi The breezy terrace here, overlooking the Eastern Harbour, is the perfect place for a cold beer or zibiba at sunset, and the food is good too. Opening time: Daily noon–1am
6 Portuguese Club 42 Sharia Abd el-Qader Ragab, Roushdi 
03/542-7599 A country club– cum– singles' bar frequented by expats, with pool or darts competitions (Tues), a disco (Thurs) and monthly party nights. Located 3km from the centre, off Tariq Gamal Abdel Nasser; catch tram #2 to the Egyptian-American Center and walk two blocks inland to find the first side-street off Sharia Kafr Abdou – which is the name to give if you take a taxi (£E5). There's no sign outside the club. Opening time: Daily 3pm till the last customer leaves; open for breakfast from 10am on Fri