Explore The Lake District
The grey peak of Volcán Llaima (3125m) looms over the horizon about 80km east of Temuco. Wrapped around its neck is PARQUE NACIONAL CONGUILLÍO, a park the volcano has been doing its best to destroy with belch after belch of black lava. The northern sector is lush, high forest, with steep cliffs covered in spindly armed araucaría trees often draped in furry lime-green moss. In the south, however, the volcano has wreaked havoc. The road from Temuco passes over a wide lava flow, consisting of either rolling plains of thin dust or walls of spiked, recently congealed rock.
Volcán Llaima is actually one of the three most active volcanoes on the continent; its last serious eruption was in 1957, though as recently as 1994 a lake, Laguna Arco Iris, was formed by a fresh lava flow that blocked a river.
The northern route into the park is through the village of Curacautín (97km from Temuco), entering the park at sector Laguna Captrén, while the southern road from Melipeuco enters at sector Truful-Truful, and from the west, a little-used dirt road runs from the village of Cherquenco past the Centro de Esquí Las Araucarías.
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Skiing and hiking in Parque Nacional Conguillío
Skiing and hiking in Parque Nacional Conguillío
The park splits neatly into two main sectors, formed by the volcano’s western and eastern slopes. The western slopes (Sector Los Paraguas) come into their own in winter, boasting a small ski centre, the Centro de Esquí Las Araucarias (45 239999), with breathtaking views, two drag lifts, three runs and a refuge near the tree line. In summer the focus shifts to the eastern slopes, which form the bulk of the park.
Day hikes
Those with sufficient experience, an ice axe and crampons can make the difficult seven-hour ascent of Volcán Llaima, but you need permission from Conaf. Be prepared to deal with crevasses and fumaroles, and beware of sulphur fumes at the summit. The park also offers a good selection of hikes for all abilities. For incredible views of the Sierra Nevada range through araucaría forest, take the 7km (2.5hr) trail from Playa Linda, at the east end of Lago Conguillío, to the base of the Sierra Nevada. The challenging Travesía Río Blanco (5km; 5hr), which crosses a small glacier before continuing into the Sierra Nevada proper, is recommended for very experienced trekkers only.
From the western shores of Laguna Verde, the 11km (5hr) Sendero Pastos Blancos runs to the Laguna Captrén, traversing spectacular scenery and rewarding you with panoramic views of Sierra Nevada, Lago Conguillío and the Truful-Truful valley. From the Truful-Truful Conaf ranger station, you can take the Sendero Subtramo Arpehue, part of the Sendero de Chile, to Laguna Captrén, passing the Andrés Huenupi Mapuche community along the way.
Short trails
The Truful-Truful ranger station is also the starting point for two short nature trails: the Cañadón Truful-Truful (900m; 30min) passes by colourful strata, exposed by the Río Truful-Truful’s flow, while the Las Vertientes trail (800m; 45min) is characterized by the subterranean springs that rush out of the ground. The Laguna Captrén ranger station is the starting point for the Sendero Los Carpinteros, also part of the Sendero de Chile, a fairly easy 8km, five-hour round-trip that starts from Lago Captrén, and loops around the lagoon before continuing to the administration centre and joining the El Contrabandista trail. This trail which was formerly used by the Pehuenche hunters and cattle rustlers going to and from Argentina. The highlight is an araucaría that’s estimated to be 1500 years old.
