You can find good budget and medium-range hotels both in the centre and on the beaches, but five-star luxury is only available by the sea. Hotels in João Pessoa rarely seem to charge the full price displayed at the reception desk, and you can get some pretty hefty discounts if you ask.

João Pessoa’s beautiful campsite, on a promontory past the Ponta de Seixas, can be reached by taking the Penha bus from the Anel Viário or the local bus station: it passes near the campsite but only operates every couple of hours. Clean and well run, on a fine beach with a spectacular view of the city, the campsite is often full, especially from January to March, so it’s advisable to book beforehand in the centre at sala 18, Rua Almeida Barreto 159 (t 83/3221-4863).