Explore Minas Gerais and Espírito Santo
Considering what there is to look forward to in Bahia and elsewhere in the Northeast, most visitors heading northward from Vitória choose not to linger on Espírito Santo’s northern coast. Indeed, the BR-101 remains far from the shore, never offering a glimpse of the ocean, and apart from the Serra do Mar far off to the west, this entire area is low-lying with a mix of cattle pasture and immense eucalyptus plantations as well as, nearer to the shore, mangrove swamps, patches of Mata Atlântica and beaches fringed with shrubs or wind-stunted coconut palms. The area does hold a few attractions, however. Coastal villages such as tiny Regência and Itaúnas remain fundamentally fishing communities, preserving traditions that have been gradually lost elsewhere, while a visit to the Reserva Natural da Vale do Rio Doce is a must for amateur naturalists.
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Reserva Natural da Vale do Rio Doce
Reserva Natural da Vale do Rio Doce
Some 30km north of the industrial town of Linhares is the Reserva Natural da Vale do Rio Doce (Tues–Sun 7am–4pm; t 27/3371-9702, w www.vale.com; R$8), home to forty percent of Espírito Santo’s remaining portion of Mata Atlântica. All but a tiny fraction of the 22,000-hectare reserve is open to the public, but you’ll need a couple of days to appreciate the area, which encompasses five different ecosystems ranging from tablelands forest to mangrove swamp. Although there’s a wealth of flora and fauna, it’s the four-hundred-odd species of bird that are the biggest draw; the best time for birdwatching is between September and November, when the forests are most abundant with fruit. Parrots and parakeets are easily spotted, while you may see a rare cherry-throated tanager if you’re very lucky.
