Corumbá is well placed for getting right into the Pantanal by bus or jeep, and has a welter of guides and agencies to choose from, as well as boats for hire. Though farther from the action, Campo Grande has better hotels and communications with the rest of Brazil, so it’s as likely an entry point as Corumbá. Some of the most popular fazenda-lodges are those in Nhecolândia, roughly speaking the area between the rios Negro and Taquari east of Corumbá. Many of these benefit from a well-established dirt access road, the MS-184/MS-228 (the old Campo Grande road), which loops off from the main BR-262 highway 300km from Campo Grande near Passo do Lontra (it’s well signposted), and crosses through a large section of the swamp before rejoining the same road some 10km before Corumbá. The track also passes through Porto Manga.
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