You’ll need to hire a local guide which, together with the transport they arrange, will set you back between R$100 and R$175 a day depending how many people are in your group; the more the cheaper. Both Mineiros and Chapadão do Céu have a highly organized association of local guides, which should be your first port of call; they will quote you a price and take care of the formalities with IBAMA, the national parks authority, such as registering entry and exit and paying the R$5 entrance fee (you have to pay your guide’s entrance fee).

You will rarely be able to set out until the following day, as cars and drivers have to be found. Given the time it will take to reach the park itself, your best bet is to complete the formalities the day before and set off at dawn the next day. The association in Mineiros is located on Praça Marcelino Roque (t 64/661-7153, [email protected]), and although the English spoken there is rudimentary, you can get by. In Chapadão do Céu, the association is at Avenida Ema, quadra 51 (t 64/634-1228); ask for Sr Rubens or Sra Elaine on t 62/634-1309.

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