Posadas and around

If you arrive in Posadas expecting your first taste of the jungle, you’ll be disappointed: the provincial capital sits on a rather bare patch of land bordering the Río Paraná, which – bar the red earth – has more in common with northern Corrientes than with the luscious emerald sierras of central and northern Misiones Province. However, while not exactly postcard-worthy, Posadas is a pleasant and prosperous place with a lively feel, some attractive buildings tucked away among the centre’s mostly modern constructions, and a revamped Costanera, or riverside esplanade, a wonderful place for a stroll on a summer’s evening.

The first recorded settlement in the vicinity of modern-day Posadas was a Jesuit Mission, founded in 1615. In 1879, the fledgling city was named after José Gervasio de Posadas, who, in 1814, had become the first Supreme Director of the Provincias Unidas del Río de la Plata – a title that rather outdid his reign, which lasted only until January of the following year. In 1884 Posadas, by far the most important settlement in the region, became Misiones’ provincial capital. Since then it has largely been a quiet backwater, whose fortunes in recent years have been tied to its proximity to the massive Yacyretá Dam and the linked construction of a road to Paraguay via the Puente Roque González de Santa Cruz. The dam has led to a significant rise in the water level of the Paraná, submerging beaches, campsites and docks in Posadas (and further afield) in 2009, while the link with Paraguay has dramatically swelled the town’s population.

Posadas is primarily a stopover city and appears to do little to reap any benefit from the modest but steady stream of tourists who pass through. While there’s a handful of mildly interesting museums here, there is little – bar the odd craft shop – specifically aimed at the holiday-maker. The town hosts a lively provincial festival, known as the Estudiantina, which runs over three weekends in September. During the festival local schools prepare and perform dance routines – all with a strong Brazilian influence.