Explore Patagonia
- Puerto Madryn
- Península Valdés
- Trelew and Gaiman: the Welsh heartland
- Punta Tombo and Cabo Dos Bahías
- The coast of Santa Cruz Province
- Río Gallegos
- El Calafate
- Glaciar Perito Moreno
- El Chaltén
- The Fitz Roy sector of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares
- Parque Nacional Perito Moreno
- Perito Moreno and around
- Sarmiento and the Bosque Petrificado
EL CHALTÉN, 90km west of the RN-40 and 220km north El Calafate, has undergone a convulsive expansion since it was established in 1985 in a (successful) attempt to claim the area from Chile. Today, it’s a thriving tourist centre showing regrettable signs of uncontrolled development: whereas some hotels have been built in a style sympathetic to their surroundings, others would look more at ease in the beach resort of Mar del Plata. That said, the atmosphere in the village is extremely pleasant and relaxed, with a friendly mix of Argentines and foreign visitors of all ages, and a particular appeal for younger, more adventurous backpackers.
Rearing up on the opposite bank of the Río de las Vueltas is the curiously stepped, dark-grey cliff face of Cerro Pirámide, while you can glimpse the tips of the park’s most daunting peaks, Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre, from the southern and eastern fringes of the village. In terms of specific sights, there is only the classically uncluttered alpine chapel on the western edge of the village. Built by Austrian craftsmen with Austrian materials, it’s a fitting memorial to the climbing purist Toni Egger, as well as to others who have lost their lives in the park.
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La Leona, a historic wayside inn
La Leona, a historic wayside inn
En route from El Calafate to El Chaltén, by a huge new bridge over the Río La Leona, stands one of the RN-40’s original inns, Hotel La Leona (wwww.laleonacountrylodge.com). It’s a wonderfully atmospheric place (despite heavy restoration) worth stopping at for a slice of home-made lemon meringue or apple pie or maybe just a tea or coffee; they also sell crafts and useful maps. You could try your hand here at the juego de la argolla, an old gaucho drinking game where you take turns to land a ring that’s attached by a string to the ceiling over a hook mounted on the wall opposite: the first person to succeed wins a drink – try one of the typical gaucho tipples, such as sweet caña ombú or caña quemada.
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Excursions from El Chaltén
Excursions from El Chaltén
Casa de Guias, on Avenida Costanera del Sur (t02962/493118), provides guides for the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares’ numerous day-treks (from $50 per person) and also runs one-day rock-climbing workshops. Local legend Gabriel “Rapa” Rapaport, is the rep for top-rate operator Camino Abierto, at San Martín s/n (t02962/493043, wwww.caminoabierto.com/patagonia), offering a range of tours and treks in the area for beginners and experienced mountain fans. The excellent Fitz Roy Expediciones, at Lionel Terray 212 (t02962/493017, wwww.fitzroyexpediciones.com.ar), managed by another legendary climber, Alberto del Castillo, organizes trekking on Glaciar Torre (teaching basic ice-climbing techniques; $500) and even more demanding and expensive (as much as US$3000) five- to nine-day expeditions onto the Hielo Continental Sur for experienced trekkers. Patagonia Magica, on San Martín (t02962/493066, wwww.patagoniamagica.com), runs mountain-bike trips from Lago del Desierto back to El Chaltén, while Rodolfo Guerra, near Rancho Grande (t02962/493020), can arrange horseriding excursions outside the park boundaries (horses are not permitted inside the park). South of El Chaltén, boat trips across Lago Viedma to Glaciar Viedma and mini-trekking near its flanks ($400 with transfer) are run by Patagonia Aventura, on Güemes (t02962/493110).
