Heading south beyond Cholila you’ll notice a distinct change in the scenery, as the lush pine forests are replaced by drier terrain that is home to the stunted meseta-style vegetation more typical of Patagonia proper. Some 90km south of the Cholila/Leleque turn-off, Esquel, the main town in the area, is a starting-point for visits to Parque Nacional Los Alerces, as well as a scattering of Welsh villages of which Trevelin is the most appealing. This is also the stage through which the steam train La Trochita, one of the region’s most enduring attractions, plies its trade.