Practicalities

Raleigh-Durham airport is off I-40, fifteen minutes northwest of town. A taxi into town costs around $30, while a circuitous shuttle service will set you back $25. Amtrak stops at 320 W Cabarrus St, while the Greyhound station is in a seedy area at 314 W Jones St. The visitor centre, 500 Fayetteville St (Mon–Sat 9am–5pm; t 919/834-5900, w www.visitraleigh.com), has the usual maps and leaflets.

Chain hotels abound near the airport and around exit 10 of I-440. For food, Big Ed’s, in the City Market at 220 Wolfe St (closed Sun; t 919/836-9909), serves huge Southern breakfasts. The 42nd St Oyster Bar, downtown at 508 W Jones St (t 919/831-2811), has been a popular spot for fresh fish and seafood since the 1930s. Hillsborough Street, lined with bars and restaurants, is the epicentre of Raleigh’s student scene. Neomonde, nearby at 817 Beryl Rd, is a great Middle Eastern diner with lots of veggie options (t 919/828-1628), while The Brewery, 3009 Hillsborough St (t 919/838-6788, w www.brewerync.com), hosts regional rock and alternative bands.