Amtrak and Greyhound share the transit centre at 221 W First St, and the visitor centre is at 201 W Main St (Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, also summer Sat & Sun; t 509/747-3230 or t 1-800/776-5263, w Appealing accommodation includes the 1914 Davenport Hotel, 10 S Post St (t 1-800/899-1482, w; $161–200), a stately 1914 treasure with a wildly ornate lobby and spacious, well-designed suites; and the stylish Hotel Lusso, N One Post St (t 509/747-9750, w; $101–130), whose well-appointed rooms have HDTVs and free wi-fi access. For eating, Luna, 5620 S Perry St (t 509/448-2383), serves up delicious, pricey Northwest cuisine such as wild salmon and seafood risotto, while Milford’s Fish House, 719 N Monroe St (t 509/326-7251), has chic seafood like pan-fried oysters, lobster tail, Thai catfish and Manila clams.

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