USA // New England //

Practicalities

Regular MBTA buses run to Salem from Boston’s Haymarket station (every 30min; $3.50). Frequent trains also leave from North Station (weekdays 2–3 an hour, weekends hourly; $5.25). For accommodation, the historic and well-run Hawthorne Hotel, 18 Washington Square W (t 978/744-4080, w http://www.hawthornehotel.com; $131–300) is right in the heart of things, while Morning Glory Bed and Breakfast, 22 Hardy St (t 978/741-1703 or t 1-800/446-2995, w http://www.morningglorybb.com; $131–200), has home-made goodies in the morning and great views of the water. The atmospheric A and J King Bakery, 48 Central St (t 978/744-4881), features impeccable walnut sticky buns and fresh, overstuffed sandwiches, while the Sixty2 on Wharf, 62 Wharf St (t 978/744-0062), is an upmarket trattoria with home-made pastas and arancini (entrees $22–24). Heading south out of town on Rte-1A, Salem Diner, 70 Loring Ave (1A) (t 978/741-7918), is a must-visit for road-trip aficionados, housed in an original 1941 Sterling Streamliner car, one of only four remaining in the US.

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