Mexico // The Yucatán

Cenotes X’keken and Samula

Perhaps the most photogenic swimming hole in the Yucatán, the remarkable Cenote X’keken, also called Dzitnup like the nearby village, is 7km west of Valladolid on Hwy-180 libre. Visitors descend through a cramped tunnel into a huge vaulted cave, where a nearly circular pool of crystal-clear turquoise water glows under a shaft of light from an opening in the ceiling. A swim in the ice-cold water is a fantastic experience. Across the road, at the even more impressive (thanks to spooky natural lighting) Cenote Samula, the roots of a huge tree stretch down into the pool.

Colectivos run to the village of Dzitnup from outside the María Guadalupe hotel in Valladolid (M$15). Any westbound second-class bus will drop you at the turn-off, 5km from Valladolid; then it’s a walk of 2km down a signed track. You could also take a taxi or, best of all, cycle from Valladolid on the paved bike path; the most scenic route is down Calle 41-A to San Bernardino, then along Calle 49, which eventually connects to Avenida de los Frailes, then the old highway and the ciclopista.