Practicalities

Visit Gary’s Dive Shop at Manlio Beltrones km 10 (t 622/226-0049, w www.garysdivemexico.com), which runs various dive trips starting at around M$540 for a basic two-tank drive, fishing from around M$650 and cruises around Seal Island (a sea lion colony) for M$810. They also have a fast broadband internet connection upstairs (Mon–Sat 8am–6pm; M$30/hr). The best source of information here is the Conventions and Visitors Bureau at Manlio Beltrones km 9.2 (Mon–Fri 9am–1pm & 2–5pm, Sat 9am–2pm; t 622/226-0202, w www.go2sancarlos.com).

If you want to stay, there’s no shortage of smart resorts along the shore, though the Best Western Hacienda Tetakawi (t 622/226-0220, w www.bwtetakawi.com; M$600–899) with pool, restaurant and all the trimmings, is great value, as is the Fiesta San Carlos (t 622/226-1314; M$600–899) at Manlio Beltrones km 8 (though there are no TVs or telephones here). For something a little cheaper, aim for the Totonaka RV Park (t 622/226-0481, w www.totonakarv.com; M$600–899), on the right-hand side as you enter San Carlos; it also offers free internet usage from its office and basic apartments, as well as RV and tent sites.

There are some decent eating options: Rosa’s Cantina (t 622/226-1000) on the main strip at Manlio Beltrones km 9.5 serves fine tortas and other Mexican dishes, and Tacos JJ over the road does sublime tacos carne asada. If you’re in the mood for seafood, try Charly’s Rock across from the Totonaka RV Park; the restaurant serves enormous lobsters and is also a good spot to have a margarita and watch the sun go down. Blackie’s (t 622/226-1525; closed Mon) at Beltrones km 10 is an expat favourite and a good choice for dinner, with juicy steaks, seafood and the odd local dish – count on paying around M$180 for the signature rib-eye.

Buses (M$9) for Miramar and San Carlos leave Guaymas every thirty minutes or so from Calle 19 by the post office, but it’s easier to catch them as they head up Serdán (try the corner of Calle 18). It can take up to an hour to reach San Carlos.