Practicalities

Visiting the monarchs is possible on day trips from Morelia and Mexico City, but it is more satisfying to stay locally (probably in Angangueo) and visit at a more leisurely pace. During the season there are direct buses to El Rosario from Mexico City (Autobuses Zincantepec from Terminal Poniente), but otherwise getting there by public transport generally involves changing buses in Zitácuaro. From Zitácuaro, buses run to Ocampo (every 15min; 30min) and continue to Angangueo (a further 20min). From Ocampo there is a minibus along a 10km cobbled road to El Rosario (every 15min; 30min). Those with a car can drive direct to El Rosario from Ocampo. If you are staying in Angangueo you could conceivably walk back downhill in a couple of hours.

The closest accommodation to the butterfly sanctuary is Rancho Givali (t 715/5239-5485 or t 01-800/087 6000, w www.mochilazo.com.mx; M$900–1199), 2km down the hill, which has comfortable rooms, camping and a good restaurant. There are also basic daytime restaurants that line the approach to the sanctuary. All other accommodation and dining options are in Ocampo and Angangueo.