Practicalities

Lanchas (launches) cost from M$110 per hour for up to four people to M$160 for up to twenty. Prices should be posted up at the embarcadero (quay), and it’s probably best to avoid embarcaderos where it isn’t. There’s a long tradition of milking tourists here, so be certain of what you’ve agreed on before parting with any money. Remember that there are likely to be sundry extras, including the cold beers thoughtfully provided by the boatman, and any flowers, food or music you find yourself accepting on your way. You’ll be encouraged to go for two hours, but try to avoid paying upfront or you’re likely to get only an hour and a half, which will include a visit to the garden centre of their choice. The boatman won’t like it, but you can always take your business elsewhere. Also, be clear which boat you are getting or you are liable to be shuffled to an inferior and less attractive model. You can rent a boat on any weekday for a little less-crowded cruising, but Sunday is by far the most popular and animated day; Saturdays are lively, too, partly because of the produce market. Off the huge central plaza is the lovely sixteenth-century church of San Bernardino, full on Sundays with a succession of people paying homage and leaving offerings at one of its many chapels; in the plaza itself there are usually bands playing or mime artists entertaining the crowds.

For the easiest approach to Xochimilco, take the Metro to Tasqueña station (line 2) and the Tren Ligero from there to Xochimilco (end of the line); there are also buses and peseros from Tasqueña as well as buses direct from the city centre, down Insurgentes and around the periférico or straight down the Calzada de Tlalpan. On Sundays many extra services are laid on. To get a boat, go straight ahead from the Tren Ligero station exit and follow the “embarcaderos” signs (about a 10min walk).