Heading north from Querétaro, most buses bypass Guanajuato and head straight for LEÓN, a teeming, industrial city of 1.6 million with a long history of excellence in leatherwork. This tradition is reflected in the scores of shoe factories and, in the centre, hundreds of shoe shops: it’s a good place to buy hand-tooled cowboy boots, jackets, belts or just about anything else made of leather, but there’s little else to see.