Paraíso and Boca de Pascuales

With your own vehicle you can reach Paraíso directly from Cuyutlán, or you could take the Laguna Estero Palo Verde boat tour and get off at Paraíso. However, if you’re travelling by bus you’ll have to return to Armería, from where it’s another 8km to this minute place – really just a few neglected buildings on either side of the dust-and-cobble street. The beach is peaceful though, with banks of crashing surf and a few uninspired enramadas serving essentially the same menu. Only at Hotel Paraíso, right on the seafront (t 312/312-1032; M$250–399), is the feeling of banality and dilapidation dispelled; the older rooms have character, but the new wing is more comfortable, and everyone uses the pool and watches the sunset from the bar. If you camp on the beach, they’ll let you use a shower, especially if you buy a drink.

Smaller still, Boca de Pascuales, 13km from Tecomán, is little more than a bunch of palapa restaurants and a beach renowned for huge waves and challenging surf; this is a river-mouth beach break with some of the nastiest and fastest tubes in Mexico (breaking right and left) – it’s definitely not for the inexperienced. Even swimming can be dangerous, but otherwise it’s a fine place to hang out for a few days. Beach camping is an attractive proposition here, but there are a couple of surfer-friendly lodges, the best of which is Paco’s Hotel (t 200/124-7362; M$400–599), on the way in, offering colourful and cosy rooms, some with air-conditioning (M$50 extra). The best restaurant, Las Hamacas del Mayor (t 313/103-6903, w www.lashamacasdelmayor.com.mx), has been serving top-notch seafood since 1953 and still draws a large crowd, in spite of its remote location. To reach Boca de Pascuales, you’ll first need to take a direct bus from Manzanillo to Tecomán, 20km south of Armería. Minibuses run to Boca from Tecomán’s bus station (7am–8pm hourly; M$6; 20min). Taxis charge M$80. Buses also run from Tecomán to Colima and Lázaro Cárdenas.