Mexico // Acapulco and the Pacific beaches

Manzanillo and around

Just ninety minutes south from the Bahía de Navidad, Manzanillo is clearly a working port: tourism – although highly developed – very definitely takes second place to trade. Downtown, criss-crossed by railway tracks, rumbles with heavy traffic and is surrounded by a bewildering array of inner harbours and shallow lagoons that seem to cut the town off from the land. You can easily imagine that a couple of hundred years ago plague and pestilence made sailors fear to land here, and it’s not surprising to read in an 1884 guide to Mexico that “the climate of Manzanillo is unhealthy for Europeans, and the tourist is advised not to linger long in the vicinity.” While it may still exhibit some of the same coarse characteristics, much of the old town has been spruced up in recent years. This said, few tourists do stay – most head to the hotels and club resorts of the Península de Santiago around the bay to the east – even though Manzanillo is a lot more interesting than the sanitized resort area, and cheaper, too.

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