Ranged in a gentle arc some 150km off the Prince Rupert coast, Haida Gwaii (formerly known as the Queen Charlotte Islands) consists of a triangular-shaped archipelago of two major islands – Graham and Moresby – and two hundred islets that make an enticing diversion from the heavily travelled sea route up through BC’s coast.
The islands are something of a cult destination among travellers and environmentalists – partly for their scenery, flora and fauna, and almost legendary remoteness from the mainstream – but also because they’ve achieved a high profile in the disagreement between the forestry industry and ecology activists. At the forefront of the disagreement were the Haida, who have made the islands their home for over ten thousand years. After years of negotiations the Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve and Haida Heritage Site was created, which protects large tracts of land, incredible biodiversity, traditional villages and numerous archeological sites. The Haida culture, and in particular the chance to visit their many deserted villages, forms an increasing part of the islands’ attraction, but many also come here to sample the immensely rich flora and fauna, the profusion of which has earned the islands the title of the “Canadian Galapagos”.
Parts of Haida Gwaii were one of only two areas in western Canada to escape the last Ice Age, which elsewhere altered evolutionary progress; this has resulted in the survival of many so-called endemics, which aren’t found anywhere else in the world. Species unique to the islands include a fine yellow daisy, the world’s largest subspecies of black bear, a subspecies of pine marten, deer mouse, hairy woodpecker, saw-whet owl and Stellar’s jay. There are also more eagles here than anywhere else in the region, as well as the world’s largest population of Peale’s peregrine falcons and the elusive black-footed albatross – whose wingspan exceeds that of the largest eagle. There’s also a good chance of spotting several species of whale, otter, sea lion and other aquatic mammals, schools of fish and a host of colourful marine invertebrates.Read More
The Haida are widely considered to have the most highly developed culture and sophisticated art tradition of BC’s aboriginal peoples. Extending from Haida Gwaii to southern Alaska, their lands included major stands of red cedar, the raw material for their huge dugout canoes, intricate carvings and refined architecture. Haida trade links were built on the reputation of their skill; to own a Haida canoe was a major status symbol. The Haida were also feared warriors, paddling into rival villages and returning with canoes laden with goods and slaves. Their skill on the open sea made them the “Vikings” of North America.
The Haida divided themselves into two main groups, the Eagles and the Ravens, which were further divided into hereditary kin groups named after their original village location. Marriage within each major group – or moiety – was considered incestuous, so Eagles would always seek Raven mates and vice versa. Descent was matrilineal, which meant a chief could not pass his property on to his sons because they would belong to a different moiety – instead his inheritance passed to his sister’s sons.
Haida villages were an impressive sight, their vast cedar-plank houses dominated by fifteen-metre totem poles displaying the kin group’s unique animal crest or other mythical creatures, all carved in elegant, fluid lines. Entrance to each house was through the gaping mouth of a massive carved figure; inside, supporting posts were carved into the forms of the crest animals and most household objects were similarly decorative. Equal elaboration attended the many Haida ceremonies, one of the most important being the memorial potlatch, which served to mark the end of mourning for a dead chief and the validation of the heir’s right to succession. The dead individual was laid out at the top of a carved pole in front of his house, past which visiting chiefs would walk wearing robes of finely woven and patterned mountain-goat wool and immense headdresses fringed with long sea-lion whiskers and ermine skins.
After European contact the Haida population was devastated by smallpox and other epidemics. In 1787, there were approximately ten thousand Haida scattered across the archipelago. By 1915, their numbers had been reduced to 588. Consequently, they were forced to leave many of their traditional villages and today live mostly in Old Massett and Skidegate. At other locations, homes and totems fell into disrepair and collectors and museums took artefacts. SGang Gwaay, a remote village at the southern tip of Haida Gwaii, remained relatively untouched.
Today, the Haida number around three thousand. Several Haida artists are highly regarded in the North American art world; Bill Reid, Freda Diesing and Robert Davidson are among the best-known figures, and scores of others produce a mass of carvings and jewellery for the tourist market. They also play a powerful role in the islands’ social, political and cultural life, having been vocal in the formation of sites such as the Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve and Heritage Site and Duu Guusd Tribal Park.