The Trans-Canada Highway cuts a long and lonely course across central Newfoundland on its way from Clarenville, at the base of the Bonavista Peninsula, to Deer Lake, a distance of 450km. There’s little to see amid this vast forested wilderness beyond the Terra Nova National Park, and to make the most of this region you need to get off the highway and head to the isolated outports along the coast. Some 100km north lie the old fishing port of Twillingate and the wonderfully preserved Fogo Island, each on a craggy broken coastline that attracts icebergs by the score from April to June.