Travellers heading west from Kamloops can either take the brisker Coquihalla Hwy to Hope or follow the Trans-Canada Hwy along the Fraser Canyon. This adds around 70km to the journey but the reward is seeing one of BC’s grandest waterways squeezed between the high ridges of the Cascade and Coast mountain ranges. Long regarded as impassable, the canyon has forced the highway to pass through seven tunnels and along a series of perilous rock ledges hundreds of metres above the swirling waters. The Canadian Pacific Railway and Canadian National Railway also pass this way. Beyond the town of Hope all road and rail routes combine to roll west along the Fraser’s lower reaches to Vancouver; before you enter its hinterland you might break your journey at the prim and dated resort town of Harrison Hot Springs.