Entering the museum you step into the fort’s central courtyard, flanked by a few rooms containing exhibits of folklore and weaponry. Assorted wooden boats lie marooned around the courtyard, revealing the different types of vessel used in old Dubai, including a traditional abra, not so very different from those still in service on the Creek today. In one corner stands a traditional barasti (or areesh) hut, topped by a basic burlap wind tower – the sort of building most people in Dubai lived in right up until the 1960s. The hut’s walls are made out of neatly cut palm branches, spaced so that breezes are able to blow right through and meaning it stays surprisingly cool even in the heat of the day. It’s also worth having a look at the rough walls of the courtyard itself, constructed from horizontal layers of coral held together with powdered gypsum – the standard building technique in old Dubai, but which is usually hidden underneath layers of plaster.
The museum’s real attraction, however, is its sprawling underground section, a buried wonderland which offers as comprehensive an overview of the traditional life, crafts and culture of Dubai as you’ll find anywhere. A sequence of rooms – full of the sound effects and life-size mannequins without which no Dubai museum would be complete – cover every significant aspect of traditional Dubaian life, including Islam, local architecture (and wind towers), traditional dress and games, camels and falconry. Interesting short films on various subjects are shown in many of the rooms, including fascinating historic footage of pearl divers at work. There’s also a line of shops featuring various traditional trades and crafts – carpenters, blacksmiths, potters, tailors, spice merchants and so on. It’s kitsch but undeniably engaging, populated with colourful mannequins in traditional dress, although the old black-and-white video clips of artisans at work add a slightly spooky touch.