ABERAERON, seven miles northeast of New Quay, comes as something of a surprise. This little nugget of Georgian architecture was built by the Reverend Alban Gwynne, who spent his wife’s inheritance dredging the Aeron Estuary and constructing a planned town around it as a new port for Mid-Wales. The colourful terraces of quoin-edged buildings around Alban Square and along Quay Parade are undoubtedly pretty, though the moneyed weekenders from Cardiff (and even London) are more interested in the excellent array of places to stay as well as the good restaurants.

Aberaeron’s beach is unappealing, so head out along the coast path or just amble around the streets and waterfront and graze in its cafés and pubs.