Frescoes in Goreme Open Air Museum's Apple Church (Elmali Kilise) in Cappadocia, Turkey. Image shot 2007. Exact date unknown.

Turkey //

South Central Anatolia

The central Anatolian plateau seems at first sight to be an unpromising prospect. A large area is virtual desert, while much of the central plateau is steppe, blitzed by cold and heavy snowfall in winter and suffering water shortages in summer. Yet within this region are two landscapes any traveller to the country should visit – the azure lakes west of Konya and north of Antalya, and, fruther east, the unique rock formations of Cappadocia. The region’s cities, particularly Afyon, Konya and Kayseri are also well worth exploring, each with a story to tell and a series of dramatic monuments from towering fortresses and venerated tombs to exquisite mosques.

Turkey’s Lakeland has been largely ignored by the Turkish tourist industry. Stretches of silver waters stand out against the grey plateau, or appear suddenly between mountains to startling effect. Accessible from Afyon to the north or Antalya from the south, the lakes have supported small settlements of reed-cutters and fishermen for thousands of years. Today their villages, for example Beyşehir, Burdur and particularly Eğirdir, earn an income running simple pansiyons for an ever increasing number of visitors. Eğirdir also provides access to the St Paul Trail, a fabulous trek through the Toros mountains, following in the footsteps of the famous evangelist. Also accessible from here are the ski slopes of Mount Davraz set in the highlands north of the lakes.

East of the lakes area, the city of Konya is the focus of Sufic mystical practice and teaching throughout the Middle East. Once the capital of the Selçuk Empire, it is today famous as the home of the whirling dervish sect, the Mevlevî.

Further east, the area between the extinct volcanoes of Erciyes Dağ and the Melendiz range is Cappadocia. Here, water and wind have created a land of fantastic forms from the soft rock known as tuff, including forests of cones, table mountains, canyon-like valleys and castle-rocks. From the seventh to the eleventh centuries AD, it was a place of refuge for Christians during Arab and Turkish invasions into the steppe and its churches and dwellings carved from the rock, particularly by monastic communities, and its unearthly landscapes make an irresistible tourist draw. At the northwest fringes of this region, the modern city of Kayseri hides a wealth of Islamic monuments set below the imposing volcanic peak of Mount Erciyes.

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