The canal banks are lined with places to eat and sup coffee – mostly cheap, since this is a university town. The local dish is çi börek, a kind of fried, half-moon dumpling with mincemeat and onions inside, always (oddly) bought in rounds of five. It’s a Crimean Tatar delicacy – many locals, especially in the old town, are of similar stock. The city is quite conservative, so despite its huge student population, it’s surprisingly hard to find a place to drink.