West of Ankara lie two cities which, though off the tourist radar, are immensely appealing, and serve as perfect opportunities to take the true pulse of Turkey. First up is salt-of-the-earth KÜTAHYA, an initially scruffy-looking place where, if you look a little harder, you’ll find some of Turkey’s most delightfully located museums, as well as whole streets of buildings that are swathed with the city’s famous glazed tiles. Then comes ESKİŞEHİR, a lively, student-filled city whose own crop of Ottoman buildings has been painted in surprisingly attractive pastel tones.