Visiting the bazaar

The best time to visit is during the week as Saturday sees it becoming far too crowded with local shoppers. Expect to get lost as most streets are either poorly marked or their signs are hidden beneath goods hung up on display. However, try finding Kavaflar Sok for shoes, Terlikçiler Sok for slippers, Kalpakçilar Başı and Kuyumcular caddesis for gold, and Tavuk Pazarı Sok, Kürkçüler Sok, Perdahçılar Caddesi and Bodrum Han for leather clothing. Carpet-sellers are just about everywhere, with more expensive collector’s pieces on sale on Halıcılar Çarşısı, Takkeciler and Keseciler caddesis, and cheaper ones in the tiny Rubiye Han or Iç Cebeci Han. Ceramics and leather and kilim bags can be found along Yağlıkçılar Caddesi, just off it in Çukur Han, and also along Keseciler Caddesi. For details of specific shops.

The old bazaar (or Iç Bedesten), located at the centre of the maze, was traditionally reserved for the most precious wares because it could be locked at night. You’ll still find some silver and gold on sale, but these days the emphasis is more on reproduction brass ship-fittings, fake scrimshaw and souvenirs.

There are a number of decent cafés in the bazaar where you can unwind and avoid the constant importuning of traders.