With its tree-lined promenades and piazzas, Lugano is Ticino’s most alluring resort, less touristy than Locarno but twice as chic. The centre of town is Piazza della Riforma, a café-lined square by the exceptionally beautiful Lago di Lugano. Through the maze of steep lanes northwest of Riforma, Via Cattedrale dog-legs up to the Cattedrale San Lorenzo, with its fine Renaissance facade, fragments of interior frescoes and spectacular views from its terrace. Also from Riforma, narrow Via Nassa – home to big-name boutiques – heads southwest to the medieval church of Santa Maria degli Angioli, home to a stunning wall-sized fresco of the Crucifixion. A little further south is the Museo d’Arte Moderna, Riva Caccia 5, with world-class exhibitions; a little further still is the modestly named district of Paradiso, from where a funicular rises 600m to San Salvatore, a rugged sugarloaf pinnacle offering fine views of the lake and surrounding countryside. The best of the lake is behind (south of) San Salvatore on the Ceresio peninsula, accessed by boats or buses.