The narrow lanes between Bahnhofstrasse and the river lead up to the Lindenhof, site of a Roman fort that now offers fine views. James Joyce wrote Ulysses in Zürich (1915–19), and the James Joyce Foundation can point you to his various hangouts and his grave. Steps away is St Peterkirche, renowned for its enormous sixteenth-century clock faces – the largest in Europe. Immediately south rises the slender-spired Gothic Fraumünster, which began life as a convent in the ninth century; its spectacular stained glass by Marc Chagall is unmissable.
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