Explore The Bothnian coast
Sweden’s east coast, bordering the Gulf of Bothnia (Bottenhavet), forms a corridor of land that is quite unlike the rest of the north of the country; the forest, so apparent in other parts of the north, has been felled here to make room for settlements. Although the entire coastline is dotted with towns and villages that reveal a faded history – some, like Gävle and Hudiksvall, still have their share of old wooden houses, though sadly much was lost during the Russian incursions of the eighteenth century – it is cities like Sundsvall, Umeå and Luleå that are more typical of the region: modern, bright and airy metropolises that rank as some of northern Sweden’s liveliest and most likeable destinations.
All along the coast you’ll find traces of the religious fervour that swept the north in centuries past; Skellefteå and particularly Luleå (included on the UNESCO World Heritage List) both boast excellently preserved kyrkstäder or church towns – clusters of old wooden cottages dating from the early eighteenth century, where villagers from outlying districts would spend the night after making the lengthy journey to church in the nearest town. Working your way up the coast, perhaps on the long train ride to Swedish Lapland, it’s worth breaking your trip at one or two of these places.
The highlight of the Bothnian coast is undoubtedly the stretch known as the Höga Kusten, or the High Coast, north of Härnösand: for peace and quiet, this is easily the most idyllic part of the Swedish east coast. Its indented coastline is best seen from the sea, with shimmering fjords that reach deep inland, tall cliffs and a string of pine-clad islands that make it possible to island-hop up this section of coast. The weather here may not be as reliable as further south, but you’re guaranteed clean beaches (which you’ll often have to yourself), crystal-clear waters and some of the finest countryside for walking.
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Storatorget
Storatorget
For a provincial place, Härnösand reeks of grandeur and self-importance, each of its proud civic buildings a marker of the confidence the town exudes. The main square, Storatorget, was once declared by local worthies as the most beautiful in Sweden and it’s easy to see why: its western edge is proudly given over to the governor’s residence, built in Neoclassical style by the court architect, Olof Tempelman, using local brick.
Konsthall
Inside the Neo-Renaissance former provincial government building, on the southwestern edge of Storatorget, you’ll find both the town’s tourist office and the Konsthall, whose small collection of contemporary Swedish art is worth a quick glance on your way in and out of the tourist office.
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Domkyrkan
Domkyrkan
From Storatorget take a stroll up Västra Kyrkogatan to the heights of the Neoclassical Domkyrkan, the smallest cathedral in the country. Dating from the 1840s, it incorporates elements from earlier churches on the site; the Baroque altar is from the eighteenth century, as are the VIP boxes in the nave. -
Östanbäcksgatan
Östanbäcksgatan
From the Domkyrkan, turn right and follow the road round and back down the hill until you come to the narrow old street of Östanbäcksgatan, with its pretty painted wooden houses from the 1730s. This is one of the oldest parts of town, Östanbäcken, where the houses were among the first to be built after the Russian incursions.
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Rådhuset
Rådhuset
For a taste of the town’s architectural splendour, take a walk up the hilly main street, Nybrogatan, to its junction with Storgatan: the Neoclassical pastel orange Rådhuset here, complete with white semicircular portico, originally served as a school and home to the diocesan governors. While further up the hill, at the corner of Brunnshusgatan, the headquarters of the regional administration is particularly beautiful, housed in a Neo-Baroque and Art Nouveau building with a yellow ochre facade. From the top of Nybrogatan, there are good views back over the town and the water.
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Murberget
Murberget
Whilst in town it’s worth retracing your steps back down Nybrogatan to the train station, from where Stationsgatan (turning into Varvsallén) turns right, passing through the docks on its way to the impressive open-air museum at Murberget, the second biggest in Sweden after Skansen.The first building to take up its location here was a bell tower, which was moved from the village of Ullånger on the High Coast to its current position in 1913. There are around eighty other buildings, most notably traditional Ångermanland farmhouses and the old Murberget church, once a popular venue for local weddings. Look out for the Rysstugan, the one and only wooden building to escape the devastating fire caused by the Russians in 1721. The nineteenth-century Spjute Inn here is still home to a restaurant, and also contains a skittle alley dating from 1910, where you can have a game.
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The train station
The train station
Other than the IKEA store, there are only two real sights in town. The train station, a grand-looking structure built in 1918, was the result of the town’s aspirations to be a major trading centre after World War I and still dominates the suburban streets of southern Haparanda from its location at the junction of Stationsgatan and Järnvägsgatan. Constructed from red brick and complete with stone tower and lantern, it provided Sweden’s only rail link to Finland until 1992 when it became another victim of SJ closures. From the platforms, you’ll be able to discern two widths of track – Finnish trains run on the wider, Russian, gauge. The track between Haparanda and Luleå has now been upgraded and electrified which, in theory at least, will make it possible to once again operate trains via this route to Tornio in Finland, though it’s likely to be some time yet before services resume. Until then, the empty sidings, overgrown with weeds and bushes, give the place a strangely forlorn air.
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Haparanda kyrka
Haparanda kyrka
After the train station, the only other place worthy of some attention is the copper-coloured Haparanda kyrka, a monstrous construction that looks like a cross between an aircraft hangar and an apartment building. When the church was finished in 1963, its design caused a public outcry: it won the prize for being the ugliest church in Sweden.
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Two countries: one town
Two countries: one town
Given that Haparanda and Tornio are so closely related, it seems only right that they should share a tourist office. Not only does it hold information about both places but it can also help with general queries about Finland. Indeed, there are two phone lines in the office, one for calls from Sweden, the other with enquiries from Finland; staff switch effortlessly from one language to another depending on which line is ringing. To get here from the bus station head towards the “Finland” signs on the nearby bridge; there are no border formalities, and so you can simply walk over the bridge to Finland and wander back whenever you like. It’s worth remembering that Finnish time is one hour ahead of Swedish time and that Haparanda and Tornio have different names in Swedish (Haparanda and Torneå) and Finnish (Haaparanta and Tornio).
