Twenty kilometres from Ibiza Town, SANT JOAN is a pretty hilltop village home to a typically minimalist, whitewashed Ibizan church, and a sprinkling of café-bars. North of the village are some wonderful beaches, especially remote Cala d’en Serra, a tiny, exquisite sandy cove, with turquoise waters perfect for snorkelling. Benirràs, 9km northwest of Sant Joan, is another beautiful bay, backed by high, wooded cliffs. This is one of Ibiza’s prime hippie-centric beaches – dozens gather here to burn herbs and pound drums to the setting sun on Sundays.
The next village to the west is SANT MIQUEL, where there’s an imposing fortified church, and a number of simple tapas bars – try Es Pi Ver for an inexpensive meal. The once astonishingly beautiful inlet at PORT DE SANT MIQUEL, 3km north of the village, has been badly mauled by the developers, but outside high season it’s not too packed here, and the sheltered bay is great for children.