Explore Catalunya
Looming gracefully over northern Catalunya, the snow-tipped Pyrenees form a mighty barrier between the Iberian Peninsula and the rest of Europe. You can ski and hike throughout these mountains, making use of a range of ski centres and vast stretches of natural parkland. Imposing peaks reach more than 3400m, while fierce rivers cleave the green valleys; tucked away in the valleys and clinging to the mountains are centuries-old alpine villages, each with its own Romanesque church, collectively forming an open-air rural museum of early medieval architecture, particularly in the beautiful Vall de Boí.
The Pyrenees are easy to reach from Barcelona – Ripoll, a gateway town to the mountains, is accessible in less than three hours. The ski scene dominates the mountains northwest of Ripoll, while summer draws hikers and trekkers. North of Ripoll is the village of Ribes de Freser, where you can board the famous cremallera railway which snakes its way up to the small ski town and pilgrimage site of Núria – one of the most magnificent journeys in the Pyrenees.
West of here unfolds the formidable Serra del Cadí, which offers superb hiking and trekking around one of Catalunya’s most recognizable peaks, the Pedraforca. To the north, along the French border, is La Cerdanya, a lush, sunny Pyrenean valley that’s especially popular in the summer with outdoor enthusiasts. Cerdanya’s capital is the lively town of Puigcerdà, while just across the border sits the geographical oddity of Llívia, a Spanish town fully enclosed by France. In winter, skiers flock to La Molina and Masella, the two big ski resorts in the area.
The mountainous terrain around La Seu d’Urgell, still further west, offers some of the best trekking in the Pyrenees. White-water aficionados get their adrenalin rush in the Noguera Pallaresa valley, where churning rivers offer the best rafting in the region. Finally, in the far northwest unfolds the rugged Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici, and lush Val d’Aran, one of Spain’s most chic and finest ski resorts.
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Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici
Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici
One of nine in Spain, Catalunya’s largest national park, the Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici, encompasses soaring peaks topping 3000m and lush meadows irrigated by more than four hundred lakes, streams, waterfalls and impressive glacial valleys. Established in 1955, the park is comprised of valleys blanketed in pine and fir forests, while wild animals like the isard, a small antelope also known as the chamois, roam the terrain. You might even spot a golden eagle or black woodpecker, both common here.
Hiking and trekking opportunities abound, from easy walks around sparkling lakes to serious treks up the mountain. The Sant Nicolas valley in the west features numerous glacial lakes, as well as the meanders of Aigüestortes (Twisted Waters). In the east lies the massive Estany de Sant Maurici (Sant Maurici Lake), at the head of the Escrita valley. In the winter, you can also cross-country ski through the park, though there are no marked trails.
The park’s western sector is best reached from the Vall de Boí – to explore Aigüestortes, the approach is generally from Boí via El Pont de Suert; the eastern portion, including Lake Sant Maurici, is accessed via Espot, which lies just beyond the eastern border of the park. The easiest starting point for the higher mountains is Capdella, south of the park. If you’ll be hiking for several days at a time between June and September, you can stay at any of the refuges throughout the park. Either visitor centre can give you a list.
Vall de Fosca
The verdant Vall de Fosca, which extends just south of the park, received its name Fosca (“dark”) because it’s surrounded by steep slopes that obscure the sun. Tiny Capdella is perched at its northernmost point, and at 1420m, is the highest of the fifteen or so tiny villages and settlements that are sprinkled south through the valley, including Espui and La Torre de Capdella, which has the valley’s tourist office. Capdella makes for a good jumping-off point into the park, and is the village closest to the teleférico (cable car).
Espot, Espot Esquí and around
Espot is a cosy mountain town hemmed in by a lovely green valley, which has increasingly been built up as a tourist centre. In the winter, skiers pass through on their way to Espot Esquí (wgranpallars.com), just south of town, with nearly thirty alpine trails.
You can access the park from Espot, which lies about 7km from the Estany de Sant Maurici. Upon arrival at the estany (lake), you’ll want to get your camera out: it’s a beautiful scene, the lake fringed by wilderness and dominated by the spires of Els Encants (“The Enchanted Ones”; 2700m).
El Pont de Suert
EL PONT DE SUERT, 41km northwest of La Pobla de Segur, features a pleasant old town, a handsome main plaça, an arcaded c/Mayor and the elegant fifteenth-century Palau Abadial, a former residence of abbots. The town also receives fairly regular buses, so you’ll pass through if you’re arriving at the park from the west.
Vall de Boí
Extending just west of the national park is the lush Vall de Boí, anchored by the mountain village of Boí. The highlights of the valley are its lovely Romanesque churches, the most remarkable of their kind in Catalunya. In 2000, the churches were designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, who described them as “an especially pure and consistent example of Romanesque art in a virtually untouched rural setting”. And it is this setting that leaves the lasting impression – the beautiful simplicity of the early Romanesque architecture is magnified by the utter alpine stillness surrounding them. The churches, all built between the eleventh and fourteenth centuries, were constructed of local materials, like stone, slate and wood – and their most striking features are their elegant belfries which, in the case of Taüll, rises an impressive six storeys. Note that many of the church frescoes are reproductions – though excellent ones, to be sure – because the originals have been moved to MNAC in Barcelona. In addition to the valley’s two finest churches in Taüll, other Romanesque beauties worth a visit are Sant Feliu in Barruera, Nativitat in Durro and Santa Eulàlia in Erill la Vall.
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The GR11 and the HRP
The GR11 and the HRP
Running roughly parallel to the GR10, which runs on the French side, the GR11 is a network of long-distance hiking trails which traverses the Spanish Pyrenees from one end to the other. Estimated to be about 850–900km in length, it runs from the Golfo de Vizcaya (Bay of Biscay) in the Basque region to the west to Cap de Creus, near Cadaqués in the east. For seasoned trekkers, there is also the HRP (Haute Randonnée Pyrénéenne), which follows a higher and wilder course in the Pyrenees, crisscrossing the Spanish–French border along the way. It runs largely through the Parc National des Pyrenées in France but also takes in parts of the Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici. In Spain, you can get more general information about the GR routes from the Federación Española de Deportes de Montaña y Escalada (FEDME; Spanish Mountain Sports Federation; wfedme.es), though the website is mostly in Spanish only. Tourist offices, refuges, and many hotels in the Pyrenees can also supply maps, info on accommodation along the route and more.
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The Cremallera
The Cremallera
The journey of the Cremallera de Vall de Núria, most often just known as the cremallera railway (“zipper” in Catalan), built in 1931, is spectacular: the little train follows the rushing Ríu Freser and then, quite suddenly, begins to scale steep mountainsides along stomach-churning switchbacks, from where you’re rewarded with beautiful views of the river and valley far below. Trains depart from the Ribes-Enllaç station, in the southern part of Ribes, daily year-round except November, when it’s closed. In high season (July to mid-Sept, plus winter hols), trains run 10–13 times a day; in low season, it’s around 6–7 times. One-way journey time is 35 minutes; tickets are €21.25 round-trip in high season, €17.75 in low season. For the latest information, visit wvalldenuria.cat or call t972 732 020.
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Dragons and devils
Dragons and devils
Pleasant BERGA, 30km west of Ripoll, is the main town in the comarca of Berguedà. Berga has the usual historical draws – an old town, the remains of a castle – but the reason that it’s on the map, so to speak, is as host of one of Catalunya’s most famous festivals, the Festa del Patum, during Corpus Christi week. During the festival, Berga’s otherwise staid streets fill with parade floats of pagans and fantasy creatures – the famous gegants, devils, dragons spewing fireworks and dragon-slayers – while revellers dance on the sidelines and behind the floats. The festival is said to be named after the sound of the drum, and you’ll hear the crowd chanting “pa-tum, pa-tum!” throughout. If you can’t make it to the festival, you can catch a glimpse of the festival at the simple La Casa de Patum (summer Thurs–Sun 11am–2pm & 6–8pm; winter only open on weekend, same hours; free), which features a video of the festival and various costumes. During Patum, you must book accommodation at least a month in advance.
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Skiing the Catalan Pyrenees
Skiing the Catalan Pyrenees
There’s a good reason the Spanish royal family and other luminaries choose to ski in the Catalan Pyrenees – it’s home to some of the best resorts in Spain. As with most ski regions, often the best way to save is through the package deals offered by many hotels, which include discounts on lift tickets. General prices are €14–24 a day for ski gear (skis, boots, poles), and €26–48 daily for lift passes, with prices varying with the length of time you buy passes for, whether it’s a weekday or the weekend and the quality of the resort. Note, also, that it’s well worth checking ahead to find out the level of snow, especially in the spring.
The Catalan Pyrenees offer a surprising variety of resorts, catering both to first-timers and advanced skiers. Intermediate skiers will find plenty of thrilling terrain at La Masella in La Cerdanya; Boí-Taüll on the western boundary of Aigüestortes; and Baqueira-Beret in the Val d’Aran. The best resorts for newbies and families are Espot Esquí on the eastern boundary of the Parc Nacional de Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici; and La Molina near La Masella.
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Whitewater adrenaline rush
Whitewater adrenaline rush
The Noguera Pallaresa’s mighty flow is legendary, and draws thrill-seekers from around Spain and further afield. The original rafts were primitive – logs lashed together – but could withstand the frothy waters, and were ridden by raiers (rafters) to the sawmills of La Pobla de Segur. These days, the rafts are of the inflatable variety, and exciting whitewater trips are offered by operators throughout the region.
The most popular section of the river is between Llavorsí and Rialp, but tour companies offer a range of trips, each more rugged and scenic than the last. The rafting season is from April to early September; some outfitters also offer rafting programmes in March and October. In season, trips are run daily, usually in the late morning and lasting 1–2 hours on the water. Two-hour trips start at €35, and go up to €70–80 for longer rides, including lunch. The tourist office has a list of recommended rafting operators, including those listed here. Most offer other activities as well:
Sort
Rubber River Diputación 14 t973 620 220, wrubber-river.com. Sort is filled with rafting and adventure shops, including this reputable outfitter, which offers everything from rafting, kayaking (€70 for a 3hr class) and canoeing to bungee-jumping (€25 per jump) and horseriding. Offices open daily 9am–1pm & 5–9pm; closed mid-Oct to April.
Llavorsí
Rafting Llavorsí Camí de Riberies t973 622 158, wraftingllavorsi.com. This established operator offers rafting, kayaking (€80 for 2 days of instruction; 2hr per day) and multiple other aquatic adventures; in the winter, they can arrange snowshoe treks. Daily 9am–8pm.
Roc Roi Pl. Nostra Senyora de Biuse t973 622 035, wrocroi.com. This friendly operator runs a multitude of river sports plus trekking and horseriding. Mid-Oct to Easter daily 9am–9pm.
Yeti Emotions Pl. Nostra Senyora de Biuse t973 622 201, wyetiemotions.com. This longtime outfitter, which shares the same office and is under the same management as Roc Roi, offers a wide range of river and land sports, both summer and winter. Snowshoe treks from €80. Mid-Oct to Easter daily 9am–9pm.
