BAEZA is tiny, compact and provincial, with a perpetual Sunday air about it. At its heart is the Plaza Mayor – comprised of two linked plazas, Plaza de la Constitucíon at the southern end with a garden, and smaller Plaza de España to the north – flanked by cafés and very much the hub of the town’s limited animation.

There are no charges to enter any of Baeza’s monuments (except the cathedral), but you may offer the guardian a small propina (tip).