It was at the little Alpine town of Kobarid that German and Austrian troops finally broke through Italian lines in 1917, almost knocking Italy out of World War I in the process. The Kobarid Museum, Gregorčičeva 10, presents a thoughtful account of the 29 months of fighting in the region through a collection of photographs, maps and mementoes. It’s also the starting point for the superb Kobarid Historical Trail, a steep 5km loop where remote woodland paths are punctuated by forgotten wartime landmarks. From the town’s main square you climb up to a striking three-tiered Italian War Memorial, opened by Benito Mussolini in 1938, before hiking further into the hills to see surviving military fortifications. At the trail’s farthest point from town bubbles the Kozjak waterfall, less impressive for its height than for the cavern-like space that it has carved out of the surrounding rock. Maps of the trail are available from the museum and the tourist office on Trg Svobode 16.