On bustling Slovenska cesta in western Ljubljana, the expanse of Kongresni trg slopes away from the early eighteenth-century Ursuline Church, whose pillared Baroque exterior is one of the city’s grandest. Vegova Ulica leads south from Kongresni trg towards Trg Francoske revolucije, passing the chequered pink, green and grey brickwork of the National University Library, arguably Plečnik’s greatest work. The Illyrian Monument on Trg Francoske revolucije was erected in 1929 in belated recognition of Napoleon’s short-lived attempt to create a fiefdom of the same name centred on Ljubljana. Virtually next door is the seventeenth-century monastery complex of Križanke, originally the seat of a thirteenth-century order of Teutonic Knights, now an atmospheric concert venue.
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