You can enter the Old Town via the only surviving medieval gateway, Michalská brána a veža (St Michael’s Gate and Tower), which contains a military museum and a tower with a view. Michalská and Ventúrska, two halves of one street, are lined with stately Baroque palaces, the university library and dozens of places to eat. At number 10 is Mozart House, where the six-year-old Mozart performed for the Palffy clan, and at Michalská 1 is the former Hungarian parliament.

A little northeast are the adjoining squares of the Old Town – Hlavné námestie and Františkánske námestie. Hlavné, dotted with street cafés, hosts the Christmas and Easter markets, and a few stalls most weeks. On Františkánske, you’ll find the Rococo Mirbach Palace, home of the City Gallery’s Baroque collection.

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