The pleasant university town of Niš (Ниш), 235km southeast of Belgrade, is a useful stopover point between Belgrade and Sofia or Skopje. Its inhabitants have a definite small-town pride, as well they might: this is the birthplace of Constantine, the Roman emperor responsible for the conversion of the whole empire to Christianity. Its collection of intriguing – if macabre – sights is a gritty reminder of the darker sides to Serbia’s history, but the focus in the cafés and bars crammed with students is all on having a good time. The city’s centrepiece is its main square, Trg Kralja Milana, which sits across the Nišava from Niš Fortress.
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