Mull’s chief town, TOBERMORY, at the northern tip of the island, is easily the most attractive fishing port on the west coast of Scotland, its clusters of brightly coloured houses and boats sheltering in a bay backed by a steep bluff. Apart from the beauty of the setting, the harbour’s shops are good for browsing, and you could pay a visit to the Mull Museum, on Main Street, which packs in a great deal of information as well as artefacts – including a few objects salvaged from the sixteenth-century wreck of the San Juan, a Spanish Armada ship that sank in the bay. A stiff climb up Back Brae will bring you to the island’s main arts centre, An Tobar, which hosts exhibitions and live events, and has a café with comfy sofas set before a real fire.