Valença do Minho

The must-see town along the Minho is VALENÇA DO MINHO (or just Valença), 17km northeast of Vila Nova de Cerveira, an absurdly quaint old town clumped amid perfectly preserved seventeenth-century double ramparts on a hillock above the river. The fortress has repelled innumerable Spanish and French invasions over the centuries, and it stands as the backdrop to some lovely local walks, down by the river and along the ramparts (watch out for hidden stairwells), the impressive design of which was influenced by the work of the seventeenth-century French military architect, Vauban. Reached through two lots of narrow gates, the town, and its undoubted charms, are exploited by myriad souvenir shops that cater for Spanish day-trippers picking up inexpensive baby clothes, bed linen, towels and ceramics. Increasingly, the extent of this commercialism is reducing the appeal of the town and even the regional tourist office describes Valença as a “shopping fortress”. But by late afternoon the crowds have gone and by evening you have old Valença to yourself, and can lazily explore what is almost a ghost town – the only disadvantage being that many of the cafés and restaurants also shut up shop.