There’s little on first view to suggest that the small town of BARCELOS is in any way special – it has a few historical sights, a small medieval centre and an attractive riverside location, and in the normal run of things you might be persuaded to give it half a day. But the truly enormous square in the centre, the Campo da Feira, provides pause for thought, and all becomes clear if you turn up on a Thursday, when you’ll coincide with the Feira de Barcelos, a gigantic open-air market with few equals in Europe, let alone Portugal.