Portugal // Estremadura and Ribatejo

Fátima

FÁTIMA is the fountainhead of religious devotion in Portugal and one of the most important centres of pilgrimage in the Roman Catholic world. Its cult is founded on a series of six supposed apparitions of the Virgin Mary, the first of which, on May 13, 1917, was to three peasant children from the village who were confronted with a flash of lightning and “a lady brighter than the sun” sitting in the branches of a tree.

Since then, Fátima’s celebrity has increased exponentially, and where once was a simple farming village now stands a vast white basilica fronted by a gigantic esplanade capable of holding more than a million devotees. Hotels, pilgrims’ hostels, cafés and restaurants have sprung up in the shadow of the basilica while each year the souvenir shops explore new territories of tackiness. Quite what you make of it all depends largely on your beliefs – it is, after all, a place built entirely on faith. However, the crowds create an undeniable atmosphere, at its most intense during the great annual pilgrimages of May 12–13 and October 12–13. At these times, several hundred thousand people congregate, most arriving on foot from throughout the country. For a few weeks before the dates each year, it’s common to see pilgrims in reflective jackets, marching along Portugal’s highways in the blazing heat, with some completing the journey on their knees in penance. The death of the last surviving child witness, Lúcia, in 2005, was marked as a national event – amid blanket media coverage she was buried in the basilica in February 2006, and it’s no exaggeration to say that the entire country came to a halt to watch.

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  • Miracles, secrets and pilgrimages