Fairly regular buses run from Lagos and Portimão to the village of ALJEZUR, 16km north of Carrapeteira, a lively town, though some way inland from any beaches. The main coast road passes through a prosaic, modern lower town where you find banks, the post office and a range of cafés and restaurants. The more interesting historic centre spreads uphill beyond the bridge over the Aljezur river, a network of narrow cobbled streets reaching up through whitewashed houses to the remains of an eleventh-century Moorish castle. It’s a lovely walk with sweeping views over the valley, via a cluster of museums, including the Casa Museu Pintor José Cercas, which displays the works and collections of local artist José Cercas, who lived in the house until his death in 1992. His well-observed landscapes and religious scenes are complemented by the attractive house and pretty garden, though inform the Museu Municipal if you want to visit as it is often locked.