Portalegre

PORTALEGRE is the capital, market centre and transport hub of Alto Alentejo, a busy commercial town of around 20,000 people, crouched at the foot of the Serra de São Mamede. It has its moments, and it’s currently being prettified in upper and lower towns, but there’s not an enormous amount to delay you here – the whitewashed old quarter, for once, isn’t dominated by a castle (only three towers and a few sections of wall remain) and instead it’s Portalegre’s industrial history that looms large. Still, one excellent museum and a decent selection of local accommodation and restaurants might persuade you to give Portalegre a night.